And of course there is pita, tall, tender and served hot enough to scald your fingertips.ĭespite all the excellence in the skewer and salad departments, despite having a menu with only one or two disappointments, dinner at Laser Wolf does not quite feel like a feast, and the people on the rooftops of other hotels along Wythe Avenue seem to be having more fun. Each one is arranged on a tray around a dish of hummus that’s so similar to the one at Zahav that I would find them impossible to tell apart if the Laser Wolf version weren’t dusted with za’atar, plus a pool of olive oil that’s large enough for a neon tetra or two to swim around in. Some seem to be original and others are straight out of Israel and the region around it, like the spicy green olives mixed with long, skinny pickled cucumbers. I am not sure why the so-called Turkish tomatoes were so cold and slippery, but the pickled green tomatoes were terrifically crisp, like a new fall apple.Ī lot of the salatim are spicy, but they’re spicy in different ways so monotony never sets in. There are gigante beans as big as your thumb, a fresh slaw of shaved fennel and cabbage, and another salad - pickled celery and pineapple - that is weird but also kind of great. (They are also meatless and fish-free, so a vegan could make a meal out of the grilled eggplant or cauliflower.) There’s baba ghanouj, smokier even than the grilled eggplant. Still, the salatim are still the best part of the meal. Even his fast-casual chain for American fried chicken and doughnuts sells, from time to time, a Tel Aviv chicken sandwich dressed with tahini, za’atar, zhug and chopped Israeli pickles. Solomonov was born, where he first cooked in restaurants and where he has found his sense of purpose and many of his ideas since 2003, when his brother was killed by a sniper while he was on patrol with his Israeli Army unit. Each in its own way explores the food of Israel, where Mr. The two of them run more than 20 restaurants in Philadelphia. It must have seemed like a good idea to the restaurateurs who came up with it, the chef Michael Solomonov and his business partner, Steven Cook. The name is a joke about the Lazar Wolf character from the musical “Fiddler on the Roof.” He’s a Jewish butcher, and Laser Wolf specializes in grilled skewers of meat. It’s hard to imagine anybody who will be disappointed by the new Brooklyn restaurant Laser Wolf except, of course, people who are under the impression that there will be actual lasers and wolves.
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